Boulder County Highpoint Trip Report
Longs Peak (14,255 ft)
Date: August 4, 2005
Author: Kevin Baker
Participants: Risa Hayes, Patrick Thornley, Kevin Baker
Keyhole route
I have been putting off Longs Peak for quite awhile since moving to Colorado over
two years ago, so I decided to try it on a Monday to avoid the crowds, using it
as a final training stomp for the Pikes Peak Ascent race. In the end, a list of
8 of us was whittled to Patrick, Risa, and myself. Back in 1996, my wife and I
were new to serious hiking and hiked up the Longs Peak trail for a stunning view
of the Diamond Face at Chasm Lake, truly one of the most spectacular places in
this great nation. To show you how green we were to hiking, we started at 11 am
and brought a whole loaf of bread, which was snatched away by a hungry marmot!
Nine years later, I am back for the real deal.
The game plan was to pickup Risa in Denver around 1:30 am so we could be hiking
by 3:30. We figured there couldn't be that many people on the trail on a
Monday. Yeah right. Construction on I-25 slowed us down a little but we were
at the trailhead at 3:30. I bought one of those Gensing drinks to give me some
energy after only 2 hours of sleep. The parking lot was nearly full and there
were a full page and half of people ahead of us, some starting as early as 1:30!
We headed out at a rather late alpine start of 3:51 as Pat's thermometer checked
in at a balmy 44 degrees. The hike through the forest was gradual and relaxing
as your world is confined to the light from your headlamp. We broke out of tree
line with views of little white dots heading up to Granite Pass, evidence that
things were going to be a little crowded today. We arrived at the Chasm Lake
junction at 5:20 and took a breakfast break as there were several groups
breaking here. As I grabbed my camera to capture the sunrise, I discovered I
didn't put my memory card back in! One of the most spectacular mountains in
America and I have no camera. Risa would have to be my photographer today and I
would use my video camera more.
The next segment of the hike is the climb to 12,100-foot Granite Pass on the
north side of Lady Washington. Here we were rewarded of sweet views of the
Mummy Range. As we wrapped around Mount Lady Washington (13,281 feet), the
diamond face on Longs shown in all her glory. We could now see the route up to
the Keyhole, our access to the fun part on the west side. At the beginning of
the boulder field, we put away poles and began the fun hop over huge boulders to
the distinct 13,150-foot Keyhole. Here there were 10-15 people getting ready
for the fun parts of the climb and considering their future. I had a snack as I
watched Pat & Risa navigate through the maze of boulders. At around 8 am, we
started across the ledges eager to see if the terrain was all it was hyped up to be.
At the start, it was imperative to get around an older couple who had actually
hired a guide for a class 3 climb! More power to them for being out there, I guess.
I got around them right before the interesting v-slot, two metal posts
that help you get around an exposed slab, easier done on the return. We then
followed the helpful bull’s-eye markers painted on the rocks. The exposure all
the way to the Narrows was not bad, as there was always at least 3 feet of ledge
to work with, most often more room than that. The people were pretty spread out
initially, so it wasn't bad. The 550-foot climb up the Trough couloir was not
as steep as the pictures I had seen led me to believe. A helmet would probably
be smart in this section but I just paid attention to what people were doing
above me. At the top of the Trough, I went left of the large chockstone that
Gerry Roach describes as the crux of the climb.
Most people went right, which I heard is easier.
Around the corner I went and next came the Narrows section, which as the name
implies is the narrowest part of the climb. Here the drops are not as gradual
but once again there are plenty of holds for extra security and there is still 3
feet of room at worst. I rounded another corner and there was the Homestretch,
log-jammed with 20-30 people climbing it. It was much longer than I thought it
would be and it was a lot of work weaving around people. There are a few icy
sections that are easily avoided and areas where the oils of so many people
climbing over the years has made some things slick. This would be a scary place
to be in a storm or when wet. I pushed through the crowds and at 9:28 I
abruptly popped out on the football field size summit. I strolled over to the
highpoint on the edge of the face and settled down on the Meeker side away from
the crowds. Wow, what a glorious day. There was plenty of sun, no wind, and
minimal clouds with plenty of time to get down. What a lucky day we picked!
The drop down to Chasm Lake is stunning. Meeker looked close enough to touch
but I did not have an axe or recent beta on the Loft route, which still had
patches of snow. I walked backed over to the top of the Homestretch,
congratulating Pat & Risa as they topped out a few minutes later.
We basked in the beautiful day, fueled up, and mingled with some of the other
hikers. One group was from Poland, another group of guys was from Michigan, as
their main goal for coming to CO was to climb Longs. This mountain attracts all
sorts of experience levels and it is cool to see people make it to the top and
realize they have made it up a tough climb! With reluctance, at 10:46 we headed
down the Homestretch, which at times was a combination of balance, crab walking,
and butt scooting. The two-way traffic up and down was busier, so we took our time.
We made it back through the Narrows and down-climbed the Chockstone.
I helped spot some people as I waited for Pat & Risa at this spot. We made it
back to the Keyhole in about 2 hrs, definitely not a speed record but we had
plenty of time.
Mount Lady Washington was now calling me with the weather still giving me
another hour or so at worst. Pat & Risa were not interested, so we agreed to
meet at Chasm Lake junction unless the weather closed in. I walked down to the
campsites in the Boulder Field and climbed up solid boulders to the west summit
of Lady Washington. Wow, these are the best views of Longs as its cliffs fill
the western sky. This was well worth the extra effort. I scampered over to the
true eastern summit at 1:51 and quickly headed down as clouds were now overhead.
I went directly down the southeastern slopes back to the trail at 11,900 feet,
which was big boulders at first followed by loose, annoying smaller rocks.
I made it back down to the junction at 3 pm and Pat & Risa arrived after wrapping
around Lady Washington 15 minutes later.
The hike out was uneventful and the weather held as we made it back to the car
at 4:46. As we checked out, there were four pages of names in the register.
I estimated about 200 people were in the log! Longs is a special place and I can
see why it is the most popular mountain in CO. What a day!
Climb statistics: 12.5 miles round trip with 5,680 feet of elevation gain.