Badwater Basin (Death Valley) Trip Report

Devils Hole Unit Highpoint and numerous sub-sea level hills

Dates: June 4-5, 2005
Author: Dave Covill

background

Over the weekend of June 3rd - 6th, my son Chris & I drove to Las Vegas NV, to celebrate his 21st birthday a few months earlier. That's a story for another time....

Our plan was to hike Telescope Peak, HP of Death Valley NP, and to also research the outlying Devils Hole Unit HP, and visit as many sub-sea level hills as possible. We were very successful, visiting Devils Hole Friday evening the 3rd, coming all the way from Denver that morning.

We climbed Telescope Peak Saturday morning, and visited numerous small hills in Badwater Basin Saturday afternoon and evening.

Devils Hole Unit Highpoint

HP = ~2,820 ft, TH = ~2,410' ft, gain = ~410', prom = ~2,660' > ~2,800' = ~120'
(notwithstanding the fact that the hilltop itself just W of the NPS boundary is ~30-40' higher.....

topo chart

From US 95 in Nevada, reach Lathrop Wells (a.k.a. Amargosa Valley), simply a junction, from either Las Vegas (~75 miles from the SE) or Beatty (29 miles from the NW). Turn S on paved NV 373 and drive 14.4 miles to a signed turnoff to the left (east) for the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge.

Drive E on the Ash Meadows NWR road for 8.6 miles to a sign for Devils Hole Unit of Death Vallley NP. The pavement ends at mile 2.9., and the AMNWR boundary is at 3.0 miles. There are several curves in the road, but always the main road is very obvious. The gravel is in good condition.

At the boundary for Devils Hole, park next to, but not obstructing, the entrance gate, locked closed. Walk up the dirt road for 0.2 mile W to the fenced cave where the Devils Hole Spring exists. The fence protects the endangered pupfish, one of many endemic (only exists here) species of creature and plants. The sign says there are more endemic species at AMNWR than anywhere but one other spot in America, although they don't bother to say what number one is.... You can see through the fence down maybe 30' to water.

Proceed N along the edge of the hill and follow a trail up slightly to a grated cave opening, which protects the habitat of a large bat colony. We saw but 2 bats while we were there; perhaps stragglers just coming home from a day out partying... everyone knows bats work at night, right?

From here, you can choose one of three options. You can walk up the left side of the gulch along the SE ridge of the hill, you can walk up the gulch itself straight uphill from the Bat Cave, or you can walk up the E ridge to the right of the gulch. I chose the former, and made it up the 350' to the top in about 15 minutes. The rocks are VERY rough and sharp, and appeared to be volcanic in nature. Exercise caution, and consider gloves. The terrain is quite steep. Once on top, I walked N for a few yards, then descended the E ridge slightly about 60', until I spied the 2' high white wooden marker denoting the NW corner of the square NP boundary. It is down to the left walking downhill, maybe 40' N of the ridge crest. The Unit appears to be about a 40 acre spread, by the way, if that. I walked downhill about 30' to examine the marker, then walked due S uphill to a point where I presumed the boundary liner crested the ridge top. I left a small cairn, sort of visible against the skyline from the TH if you had binoculars...

I descended the gulley, which was smoother rock due to erosion I presume, and was easier going once I reached it from the E ridge crest. A fourth choice might be to descend the basin to the NE, but I wanted to remain in sight of Chris at the Bat Cave and car in case I slipped and needed him.

Flat Mesa by Salt Creek Picnic Area W of Beatty Junction

This is the Lowest Large Hill with P => 20'

HP = ~-200', TH = ~-205', Gain = ~5' Net ~ 20'
prom = ~-215' > ~-200' = 15' + <5' + <5' = ~20'

topo chart

From Stovepipe Wells, proceed E on CA 190 9 miles to the Beatty Junction with CA 267. Continue 4.0 miles to a righthand (south) turnoff on gravel to the Salt Creek Interpretive Center and Picnic Area. Alternatively, from the Eastern Beatty Junction Cutoff Road and CA 190, go 2.3 miles W and turn right (south) onto the gravel road. This road is washboard rough and occasionally a bit sandy, but passable by anything on 4 wheels. Proceed 1.0 mile SW to the end of the road at some picnic tables, and a restroom. Probable daytime temp in restroom exceeds 150°!

Walk S then SE at the TH contour of ~-210', curving around the E edge of a gentle hill, for 2 miles, staying ABOVE the rougher ground downhill, until you see the flat-topped hill out to the SE of you and the gentle saddle down to it. You can also descend from the TH along Salt Creek, and then gain more elevation up to the hill, although this seems to not make much sense, given the effort to even walk on a level in this heat. Walk up the slight slope to the flat hill.

I did NOT walk here, as it was ~3PM and ~110°, and we had to get to other hills and then Las Vegas.

Low Hill NE of Flat Mesa by Salt Creek Picnic Area W of Beatty Junction

This is the Lowest Hill of any size with P => 15'.

HP = ~-210', TH = ~-205', Gain = ~-5' Net, ~15' Gross
Prom = ~-225' > ~-215' = 10' + <5' + <5' = ~15'

topo chart

I did NOT walk here, as it was ~3PM and ~110°, and we had to get to other hills and then Las Vegas.

High Hill NW of Salt Creek Picnic Area W of Beatty Junction

This is the Most Prominent Hill of any size with a summit lower than sea level.

HP = ~-35', TH = ~-205', Gain = ~170' Net, ~170' Gross
Prom = ~-140' > ~-35' = 80' + <20' + <20' = ~105'

topo chart

Walk NW from the TH up the Salt Creek bed for ~ 0.3 miles, gaining ~30', then head uphill to the N to a saddle between two hills. Gain the saddle, then head right (east) to the prominent hill overlooking the parking area. It looks a little rough on the way and on top, but didn't look too bad.

I did NOT walk here, as it was ~3PM and ~110°, and we had to get to other hills and then Las Vegas.

Harmony Borax Works Hill, by Furnace Creek

This is the Lowest Large Hill with P => 60'.

HP = -160' + ~10' = ~-150', TH = ~-240', Gain = ~90' Net, ~ 90' Gross
Prom = ~-210' > ~-150' = 40' + <40' + <40' = ~80'; probably ~65-70'

topo chart

From Furnace Creek Visitor Center, go N on 190 for 1.2 miles to the turnoff to the Harmony Borax Works ruins. Turn left (west) and drive 0.2 mile on pavement to the parking lot. The road continues NW as gravel in an interesting loop road through Mustard Canyon.

From the TH, follow the obvious use trail uphill past the abandoned buildings and machinery, to the flattish hilltop. The trail is not as good above the buildings, but still hands-in-pocket. There are several minor bumps, and the easternmost appeared highest. The ground is smooth dirt.

Artists Point Hill, by southern Junction of Artists Point Road and Badwater Basin Road, CA 178

This is the Lowest Large Hill with P => 75' and the Second Most Prominent Sub-Sea point in America, also the lowest BM Summit.

HP = -85', TH = ~-163', Gain = ~78' Net, ~ 78' Gross
Prom = ~-163' > ~-85' = ~78'

topo chart

From the junction of 190 and 178 near Furnace Creek Inn, go S on 178 (Badwater Basin Road) for 8.4 miles to the southern of two intersections of the Artists Drive road, which is gravel. Park here at this gentle crest, on the W side of the road. There is a large hill to the west, and another lower and smaller one to the NW. Your goal is the larger of the two, directly uphill from your vehicle. You can also reach it from the S, by driving N on 178 from Badwater for 7.7 miles.

Walk up the gentle slope for about 0.3 miles, up about 80', to the flat summit. Continue further than you would think you need to go, as there is an optical illusion, with the ground actually getting higher as you perceive you are getting lower, until you turn around and look back. There is a BM set in concrete, amidst a few rocks. The summit resembles Petrified Forest NP in a way, with many small softball-sized rocks scattered every few feet on sand and dirt.

Cinder Hill, 2 miles Northwest of Junction of Badwater Basin Road, CA 178, and West Side Road

This is the Lowest Named Hill with any amount of prominence in America.

HP = -23', TH = ~-61', Gain = ~38' Net, ~ 38' Gross
Prom = -45' > ~-23' = 10' + <10' + <10' = ~20'; probably ~22'

topo chart

From the junction of 178 and the West Side Road, drive W on West Side Road for 1.7 miles to a spot where you are even with two small hills on the left (southwest). This road is rough gravel, and very washboard and sandy. A 2WD car can make it, driven slowly.

You can walk up and over the lower of the two hills (the easternmost) if you choose. You can also walk into the valley between the two, and ascend the gentle NE side of the hill, hiking about 0.2 mile total, and up about 35'.

The summit of the higher of the two hills, named Cinder Hill, is very interesting. There are a few softball sized rocks strewn about, and there is a fine veneer of small, ~1", red volcanic rocks, on top of a hardpack dirt surface. These rocks have been careflully swept aside in a 4" swath in a spiral fashion, emanating outward in 2' larger loops, from a central cairn of about a dozen rocks. There are a few prayer flags and other artifacts placed about randomly. There are no notes or other info to lead the visitor to a clearer understanding of the meaning of the spiral. It probably took over an hour to accomplish by someone.

Conclusion

At this point, it was about 6 PM on Sunday June 5th, and we headed for Lost Wages, NV up 178 to Shoshone and past Charleston Peak, distinguished by its snowcap. The Tour de DEVA ("DEath VAlley") was complete.