Cheese Universe


My interest in cheese derives largely from the large range of intense flavors that are available. Compare, for example, the extreme contrast between a dessert cheese, such as gourmandise with kirsch, to a feta cheese in vinegar brine. Now compare the difference in taste between beef and lamb. The two meats I dare say are very close in taste when compared to the two cheeses. It therefore comes as no surprise that in general I enjoy more cheese than meat.

There are eighteen basic varieties of cheeses in the world, differing in the manner of production, e.g. the amount of salt added, the duration of curing the wheel, whether mold is allowed to enter the wheel, etc... .

From these eighteen combinations derive all the famous cheeses that are known the world over, of which there are at least 400 kinds.

One classification of cheese is the firmness of texture. This ranges from a soft cheese, as brie, to very hard cheeses as parmagiana and manchego.

Some cheeses are somewhat unique. Cottage cheese has not been allowed to dry and age. Hence it is fresh and has a lower fat content. Farmer cheese is similar. Norwegian gjetost is a sweet cheese seeing as it is made from the whey rather than the curd. It has a flavor of brown sugar and lasts indefinitely. Limburger has an extremely pungent odor that can even offend. It is certainly an acquired taste.

Cheddar cheese contains several subvarieties including Monterey Jack, and may be aged for different periods to give it a mild flavor or, as with New York extra sharp or Canadian black diamond, a stronger character. True cheddar from England (where it began life) is tastier, and in general I dare say that cheddar has little to recommend itself with one exception - as processed cheese it melts quite easily in many dishes.

Pasteurized process "cheese food" is a homogenous product that by government standards must have no more than a certain water content. Pasteurized process "cheese spread", as Velveeta, has a slightly more lenient standard. Consequently cheese food has a higher fat and calorie content, e.g. 80 calories - vs - 90 calories per ounce. Hard natural cheddar has 110 calories per ounce.

Please do not eat such processed cheeses out of hand - they lack any refinement or depth of flavor and are only good as additions to a dish with other ingredients, e.g. a tuna melt or a salami and cheese sandwich.

In the past several years many lower fat or even nonfat cheese products have appeared. I have tried all available varieties. Part of the appeal of natural cheese is the unctuous, rich feeling it imparts to the tongue. When this is removed entirely, as with Healthy Choice nonfat cheese (25 calories per slice), the result is akin to rubber. You may be living healthier, but the enjoyment of cheese is largely lost.

However lower fat cheese products, such as Phildelphia cream cheese (70 calories per ounce) are acceptable and tasty alternatives to the real thing. They retain much of what we recognize as cheese flavor and texture and reduce fat by a substantial fraction.

For a truly excellent cheese experience one must eat natural cheese, and do so paired with bread and usually wine or fresh fruit. Here are some good bread and cheese combinations:

And some good wine and cheese combinations. In general pair a mild cheese with a mild wine. When most fine cheeses are fully ripe they assume a deep tang that overwhelms most table wines. However a strong red wine might stand up to them. Port and stilton are excellent together, as are many French cheeses with sherry:

Cheese can augment virtually any dish, giving it new life and interest. Cheese can also be the main ingredient in appetizers, main courses, and dessert as cheesecake. I have enjoyed cheese in all these ways, and then some by pushing the limits of what one calls tasteful fare.

I will not repeat some of the more obvious ways of using cheese in cooking, such as cheese fondue, cheese quiche, and pizza. Rather I give here a list of the more esoteric: