Nevado Illimani - Pico Sur (21,201 feet) |
Illimani - La Paz to Base Camp
At 8 AM sharp we departed La Paz for Illimani in a four wheel drive vehicle with Rene driving. Gear was lashed to the top and very well secured. The roads were very bad. In addition to the usual narrow roads, we also "drove" down a canyon that would have washed us out had there been a flash flood. Up and down we went, all the while our objective looming ever larger in our views. At one point I estimated the altitude as 10,000 feet. From that vantage Nevado Illimani was fully 11,200 feet above us and only perhaps five miles horizontally. Quite spectacular.Illimani - Base Camp to El Nido de Condores
Early morning was cloudy and not encouraging. However patience lead to sunshine, and so by 9 AM two porters had arrived while by 10 AM Bob, Roberto and myself resumed our upward journey. We were actually on the mountain within one half hour, passing a waterfall from glacial runoff. The going was naturally slow, wending our way in a serpentine fashion up sandstone topped by much broken rock. I tracked our vertical progress more by noting our level relative to nearby subpeaks than by relying on my altimeter watch. The latter was acting erratically and could only be relied upon to give a general sense of the altitude rather than an accurate reading.Illimani - Summit Day
A semiconscious state, half asleep, precluded a good rest. As the hours passed, I wondered if somehow the alarm, set for 2:30 AM, had missed the mark and we would awaken to daylight. That would be great because my hidden agenda could swing into action: by starting our summit bid at dawn, rather than at 4 AM, there would be insufficient time to descend all the way to base camp in the late afternoon. I did not want to increase the day's efforts by breaking camp after 11 hours of climbing. It was simply an unreasonable amount of physical effort for one day. Furthermore we had arranged for five days of climbing and so an extra day, originally to be used for bad weather, was already built into the schedule. The alarm sounded. Bob had considerable reservations about even starting out seeing as he had troubled breathing all night and felt that his chances of actually climbing three thousand feet higher still was a lost cause. The sweet oatmeal was hurriedly cooked, first for Bob and then for myself, followed by almond torte with hot cocoa. I flavored the cocoa with considerable instant coffee, and, much to my chagrin, still felt as if all I wanted to do was sleep. It was a strange sensation - wired on caffeine and yet internally exhausted. That was enough for me. Given Bob's unwillingness to start and my pitiful level of alertness, I suggested to Roberto that we sleep until dawn and climb by first light. Yes, I understood, as did Bob, that an additional uncomfortable night would be spent here. We agreed to a 6:30 AM departure. My hidden agenda had been fulfilled. I felt well enough to climb at dawn. Roped together Roberto and myself headed up the ridge, leaving Bob and Rene behind since Bob was yet unconvinced of his abilities. The ridge led somewhat steeply to a level area around 19,000 feet, I knew, and that the crux of the route was a 50 degree pitch immediately above our high camp. Remarkably, owing to the perfect snow conditions I required no belay whatsoever for this entire section in which we ascended some one thousand vertical feet.Illimani - El Nido de Condores to La Paz
Although we had reached the summit of Pico Sur, as the highest point of Nevado Illimani, a climb cannot be considered completely successful until one executes a safe return. So although there was clearly reason to be relieved seeing as the most arduous and dangerous portion of the climb was finished, we still had to negotiate 1,500 vertical feet of snow along a narrow ridge.Introduction | Preparation | Final Chapter |