Preparation Phase |
To Bolivia
Time used to be that I would enjoy a trip to the airport. The anticipation of, and the sheer thrill of lifting off the runway would be considerably rewarding for its own sake. Nowadays I cannot claim to get anything more out of an airline flight than a destination. This attitude, certainly shared by the vast majority of travelers, has been fostered by the current rash of flight delays and cancellations which currently plague the public air transportation system. My short flight from San Diego to Los Angeles proved no exception - it became delayed to an extent that I would miss my connection. Hence I was forced to take an earlier flight and hoped that my baggage would arrive at their final destination, La Paz Bolivia, without mishap. I met Bob Packard at the gate in Los Angeles and we boarded the flight bound for Miami. Miami is the terminus for many flights to/from Latin America. This is reasonable because, as South America lies largely east of the United States, Miami is the natural place for connecting to that continent from a geographical perspective. Miami also has a large hispanic community. The flight was uneventful. While in Miami's airport awaiting our overnight connection, I purchased a package of key lime flavored coconut patties in dark chocolate. I always try to enjoy some aspect of the local cuisine when traveling, and, since key lime appears to be popular in southern Florida (key lime pie being famous), I felt compelled to do such. The delectable confection then gave me an excuse to enjoy a double dip ice cream with the coconut mixed inside. It would also keep me company on the long flight south when there was little else to do but sleep. The flight included a rather opinionated man who insisted upon relating to Bob and myself his religious philosophy. He eventually became quite annoying to me because he would not accept the fact that Bob, and myself, had opinions that diverged from his. Worse still, I was seated in-between this nut and Bob, such that I was caught in the cross-fire between their verbal volleys against one another. Eventually I told this jerk that I wanted no more controversy and that, as such, to please let the topic of discourse to be anything BUT religion: for it was pitifully evident that nobody was even close to an agreement. The nut changed the topic and even fell asleep in time. Finally I could enjoy my own nutty confections in peace and quiet! The sweet coconut filling went well with dessert - which just so happened to be coconut cake. He did have one saving grace (at least for my sake): he gave me most of his meal, including the red wine (free on international flights). So happens that by flight's end I had enjoyed four 187 ml bottles. Nevertheless owing to the large amount of food eaten (including all of my key lime deserts), I was tolerably sober upon landing in La Paz at just past six AM Bolivia time. Since we had largely remained awake the entire night (with perhaps an hour total sleep for myself), this day would merge into the next. Nevertheless our landing in Bolivia forms a natural break point for descriptive purposes.Day One in La Paz
Our check through customs was followed by the taxi driver's scam of trying to separate our luggage into two vehicles such that Bob and myself would have to pay double for the drive into La Paz. I grabbed back my duffle bag, got Bob's attention, and then focused on a single waiting cab whose driver had not entered the fracas. Once in the passenger compartment a man asked through the window if I was Adam Helman. Here was Carlos Escobar - my contact in La Paz for arranging our climb of Illimani. Carlos is the head of an adventure travel agency, and a mountain guide himself, with whom I had been in continuous e-mail discourse for the previous three months in the effort to secure our climbing plans. He wanted to meet us that day, possibly even in a few hours. In perfect Spanish (which surprised even myself) I told Carlos that we needed to sleep first and that I would call him later to arrange a time. Bob was impressed by my Spanish proficiency. El Alto International ("the high one") is situated on the Bolivian altiplano at 13,300 feet above sea level. One traverses the now enormous, eponymous shantytown, El Alto, enroute to La Paz situated 1,500 feet lower inside a large canyon, bowl-shaped, sheltered from the sometimes biting cold of the altiplano proper. The descent by motor vehicle affords a unforgettable view of the city with Illimani as its guardian in the distance. Few cities are more spectacularly situated as Bolivia's economic and de facto political capital.Lake Titicaca and Copacabana
Seven in the morning. We stood at the main "bus terminal" for La Paz in anticipation of a departure for the resort town of Copacabana on the shore of Lake Titicaca. In truth we were amidst a chaotic scene of operators hawking their destinations; street vendors eeking out an existence; and a few buses in disarray waiting to get filled by customers. We purchase three tickets, including one for our backpacks, since the mode of transporting baggage - lashed to the bus's rooftop, appeared too primitive and fraught with danger from both theft and accidental loss. After one hour we finally understood that the system had to be learned: no bus departs regardless of the posted schedule, until it is filled with passengers. I had located a one liter carton of orange juice for Bob. It served as his breakfast seeing as we had left the hotel earlier than the free continental breakfast provided. This menu choice proved flawed - after 1 1/2 hours on the road Bob was in pain for want of relieving his bladder. With an empty water bottle the solution was simple and effective. I intentionally drink very little, if at all, prior to an extended road trip. Halfway through the 4 hour journey I enjoyed a salteña from a street vendor who had boarded the bus at one of multiple stops. The salteña is a late morning pastry filled with savory items such as diced chicken and potatoes. It is invariably oozing with spicy juices and is guaranteed to make an absolute mess.Decision Point
The day was Monday, April 30. Word was out that some political group was threatening to block major roads in the countryside should their demands not be met. This is a common occurence in Bolivia and tends to occur on May 1 - their Labor Day. The deadline for a decision was the midnight between Monday, April 30 and May 1, with any blockades to be in place by 8 AM the following morning. Since our plans were to take an overnight bus to Potosi Monday night (there are no daytime departures), we had to consider a major change in plans: we would arrive in Potosi before any blockade, but would not be able to return to La Paz in order to climb Illimani.Valle de Las Animas
Bob and I had decided to leave ourselves stranded in La Paz for the five days remaining prior to our attempt at Illimani. I recalled that, on the final day before leaving Bolivia six years earlier, Edward Earl and myself had visited Valle de la Luna ("Moon Valley") - a short drive to the lower part of La Paz (11,000 feet) where a series of odd geological formations reminded one of an eerie moonscape. Our taxi driver, Walter, suggested the alternative of visiting Valle de Las Animas ("Spirit Valley"), since, although it was further, it was far more impressive. Boy was he right!! We enjoyed a one hour hike, all up, through the most fantastic rock formations, extremely wind and water eroded. Upon reaching the top of a hill I was disappointed to see that it merely connected to another slope just ten feet lower than the hill's summit. Bob and I walked to the nearby slope and climbed it to a lookout.A Pair of Fifteeners
On Tuesday we decided to hire Walter again for a drive to the base of some hills which we learned from our maps had summits in the fifteen thousand foot range. The total distance and duration were small, as were the vertical gains for two hills (200 and 400 ft). However both Cerro Estuquerria ("Stucco Factory Hill", 15,679 ft) and a sister hill just to the north (15,873 ft), as fifteeners, satisfied my desire to have a fifteen thousand foot summit in my list of successful ascents. These hills had very gradual slopes and were foothills of Nevada Chacaltaya immediately to the north. Only upon seeing them from a great distance, and from above at the same time, could one discern without doubt that they were natural highpoints on the land, and, as such, true summits.Tihuanaco
In light of my headache the previous day, with the advice of Carlos Escobar regarding the matter, on Wednesday we decided to play tourist and visit the Aymara ruins at Tihuanaco rather than resume our hiking regimen. This time we took a "micro" - a small van which is constantly stopping to onload more passengers. Sometimes the operator will try to stuff in more people than seats. It was a cramped and uncomfortable drive. However at only 8B (some $1.25 US) it was a bargain.Sixteener
On Thursday Bob Packard was set on climbing a very specific sixteener that we had spotted Tuesday while on the fifteener hike. It was impressive to behold and, upon examination of the map back in the hotel room, had the largest prominence island of any sixteener within a few hours drive of La Paz. To my eye the summit ridge looked dangerously rocky - unwise to attempt without a rope. However Bob assured me that it was within my abilities since I had already climbed much more difficult mountains involving similar terrain.Nevado Chacaltaya
Time to strap on crampons. Today, Friday, was the final day prior to our attempt on Illimani - and there was hardly a better way to guage our level of acclimatization than to reach the summit of Chacaltaya (17,700 feet). I had already climbed Chacaltaya with Edward Earl six years previously. However since it was only a 500 vertical foot gain from the Chacaltaya ski lodge (the world's highest), I decided to keep Bob company and do it again. The drive from La Paz, with Walter, was less trivial than the hike itself since it presented an unforgivingly narrow and dangerous "road" up the mountain side.Introduction | Ascent | Final Chapter |